Mytoi: The Jewel of Chappaquiddick

It's one of the unlikeliest of delights to be found on the Vineyard, and it seems even more charmingly eccentric - unexpected at any rate - that it should be on Chappaquiddick, that semi, demi Island that is part of our Island.

Mytoi is a garden in the Japanese style, a garden like no other to be found in these precincts. Unusual it may be, but is true to the functions of a Japanese garden, soothing to the spirit, spare and intricate in design, providing a universe in a small space.

As with so many of the Vineyard's protected places, Mytoi is the legacy of a devoted Vineyard conservationist. Mrs. Seth Wakeman in the early 1950s bought land on either side of the dirt road that leads to Dike Bridge, and five years later had a summer house built across the road from the garden. The house's architect, Hugh Jones, was a devoteé of Japanese style, and he was intrigued by the possibilities of the land.

He cleared out the poison ivy and underbrush, and eventually a pond with an island in the middle began to emerge. Flowers and shrubs were planted, and the notion of a running stream were entertained. After Mr. Jones died, Mary Wakeman continued the work, dedicated not to an imitation Japanese garden but to a distinctive, indigenous Chappaquiddick echoing of the themes of the distant gardening gems.

When Mrs. Wakeman died in 1984, her family gave Mytoi to The Trustee of Reservations as a permanent legacy of her and Mr. Jones's vision, and so it remains. But the road has not been smooth, and chaos visited the serene design of the unlikely public garden.

The chaos was named Hurricane Bob. Tornado-like fists of wind smashed at the delicate shrubs and stately pines. It was a devastation of lasting impact, not easily repaired.

But repaired it was. The Trustees brought in landscape designer Julie Moir Messervy, who immediately understood the unique character of the garden, it's singular expression of Chappaquiddick habitat and Japanese spirituality.

There is a dramatic quality to the walking experience as a visitor travels amid the young birch trees on a path or wanders along the edge of the Mytoi Pond. There are 10 different varieties of viburnum, and almost as many varieties of azaleas. Along the edge of Mytoi Pond, there are black highbush blueberry, native to Chappaquiddick. A flowering pepperbush also overlooks the pond.

Hundreds of daffodils cover the hillside in May and dogwoods light the woodland. Azaleas, rhododendrons and wild roses bloom in spring, while Japanese iris flower in summer. The leaves and fruit of sweet gum and holly glow red in the fall. Beyond the garden, pitch pine forest grows down to the edge of a salt marsh creek.

Mytoi's quiet paths and tranquil atmosphere make it a fine stop for a picnic or a simple change of pace.

Directions: From Edgartown ferry, take Chappaquiddick Road for 2.5 miles. At sharp right curve, go straight onto Dike Road (dirt road) .3 miles to entrance on the left.